I recently learned about binturongs, ridiculous animals which look like a hybrid of roughly five
different cute critters, galumph about the place, and
smell suspiciously like popcorn1. Thank you to the algorithmic Youtube overlords for blessing me with the above video.
Washington1, a town in urban County Durham long since incorporated into Sunderland, is not a place where one
expects much nature. The palatinate’s chirping woods and rolling Pennine moors are not so far away,
and the path i took to get to today’s attraction led not through winding country roads but broad,
grey industrial arteries, designed to ferry thousands to and from Nissan’s immense factory.
But at the end of the road, down by the river Wear, there lies a wee patch of idyll: the
Washington Wetland Centre.
On a hilltop in the distance: the previously covered
Penshaw Monument.
I’d come on a good day for it, clearly, as the first thing i saw coming out of reception was the
staff corralling all the ducks together for their annual vaccination, by means of a ramshackle
assemblage of mesh fences. (Crowd control for birds!) The littlest one kept trying to escape his jab
like an ornithological Bobby Kennedy.
Most fabulous of all creatures of the air on offer are the eiders, the diva-est ducks in the world,
emitting a chorus of sassy coos as they revel in their status as undisputed kings of the pond.
(You’ll have to take my word for it, as i neglected to take a video, erring towards the side of it
being better to live in the moment than through a phone camera. I was yet to realise what good
blog-fodder the visit would make.)
As apologies for the lack of Eider Content, please accept this invasive rodent instead.
On the other side of the preserve a viewing area juts out to overlook the Wear — still salty and
tidal this close to the sea — and an artificial
saline lagoon, built to provide a home for those creatures who prefer a more brackish milieu. The signs tell me
that, rare as they historically have been, more and more European otters have made their home along
the wear, and the lucky visitor might hope to see one… if only the centre were open at dawn or at
dusk, when they come out.
The sign’s not joking — Asian small-claweds’ bite force is enough to break your bones.
Not to worry, for the centre are also very proud of their main mammal enclosure: a family of
utterly2
adorable Asian small-clawed otters. They’re a lot less squeaky than the ones at Northumberland Zoo,
and wondering why, two theories popped into my head.
First, that it’s the Northumbrians’ fault. Their northern sibs were greater in number, a family of
four to Durham’s two, and they were, by all accounts, masters of putting on a show. They appeared in
an orderly fashion when their circadian rhythms told them it was feeding time, pipped and squeaked
incessantly at the keeper until they got their fish, performed some cuteness, and then went back
inside when their bellies were full. They knew exactly what they were doing, methinks.
Second, that the Washingtonian otters were grieving. I said there were two, the younger Buster and
the elder Musa, and you might be hard-pressed to call that a family. But until this month, there
were three.
Mimi, the clan’s matriarch and a
scamp who bonked so much they had to give her a lutrine IUD, passed of
old age at fourteen (a good innings by her species’ standards, no doubt). When she went, they had to
put her corpse back in the enclosure so the others would understand.
They were still otters. Still playful. But something about them seemed… morose. Maybe, in between
the fish and the scampering and the puzzle feeders, they were still thinking about her.
On the way out, i passed a tiny observatory, cleverly named “Cygnus” for the constellation of the
swan, used by night for the
Sunderland Astronomical Society. I don’t know if it’s
of much use this far into the zone of light pollution, but they certainly seem to enjoy it, so
perhaps my relatively sky-privileged Northumbrian self shouldn’t play the lecturer. Perhaps that
fateful night that Mimi died, a star in the sky began to twinkle a little brighter.
Alex Garland’s Annihilation is nominally a horror film.1
Team of scientists goes into an evil forest, gets picked off one by one with cool body horror
effects, blonde final girl makes it out and is irreversibly traumatised, movie ends, many such
cases.2
But i’ve never seen it that way.
Might i just be a contrarian? Certainly, the biosphere our characters enter is cruel, but i think
it’s a useful exercise to consider the situation from its perspective. The government is on their
Gods-know-how-manyth expedition into the Shimmer at this point, and up until now, it’s all been
military men. Cripes, if i were a sentient self-regulating ecosystem and all these feds started
probing around my internals because they want to kill me, i’d develop an immune response too.
The world beyond the Shimmer is beautiful beyond description. It is a place where the sky glistens
in iridescent3
waves, where every sort of plant grows from every sort of bush and beast, and where death is just
one step in a beautiful cycle of life and rebirth.4
It blurs the line between not just the species but kingdoms of life — flora, fauna, and funga all
mingling and merging together equally under one roof. Barring the terrifying human–bear hybrids,
that’s a world i’d like to live in.
Plus, it seems willing to learn. In the ending “fight”
(cue the noise), allegorical for the obvious as the
visuals may be, the alien throws not a single punch. It’s learning by doing, mimicking every move
Lena makes, enough to turn into a rudimentary facsimile of her — and even after its destruction, the
ending glimmer in her and her husband’s eyes makes clear a part of the Shimmer’s essence is here to
say. I say that’s for the better.
P.S. Here’s some stuff i’ve been listening to recently (sorted from
“bleep bloop” to “strum strum”):
Well, i care about what my favourite dinosaur is, and it’s Diplodocus, that
lumbering old fool. Allow me to be possessed by the spirit of my nine-year-old self for a little
bit.
Reason number one why the diplodocus is the best dinosaur is because it is called a diplodocus. This
is a very fun name to say and does not strike the same terror into the hearts of men as, say, 🤘🤘🤘
Tyrannosaurus Rex!!! 🤘🤘🤘 or 🔥🔥🔥
Velociraptor!!! 🔥🔥🔥. I like to think this is
because they are, themselves, gentle creatures, being peaceable herbivores and all that. (My
favourite dinosaur could beat up your favourite dinosaur, but chooses not to because it is a
conscientious objector. I’m sure this taunt would have gone down great on the playground.)
Another reason diplodoci are great is how long they are, getting up to thirty metres from tip of the
snout to top of the tail. Part of me thinks it would be fun to be that long, but the other part
likes being able to turn around corners. There’s other dinosaurs that we think were longer, but most
of them don’t have a complete skeleton to back them up, which is a skill issue if i’ve ever heard
one. If my species was about to be wiped out i would simply do the smart thing and die in an area
that would preserve my fossil better. Suck it, Maraapunisaurus.
That long neck isn’t just for show, either. This is the kind of thing that causes massive arguments
among palæontologists, but
a study in the Journal of Vertebrate Palæontology
(yes i’m backing up my dinosaur preferences with a source) suggests that, because their centre of
mass would lie so close to their hip socket, they could assume a bipedal stance without much effort,
lifting them high up into the canopy into the land of only the most gourmet leaves. Then, when a
foodie diplodocus was done with its land-based course, it could dip its neck into the riverbank and
feast on some fine vegan seafood.
One last thing. After Pangæa broke up, the land where the diplodoci reigned shifted and drifted
until its reached its present place, in the American southwest. The implication is clear:
Hail, the mustelid! Greatest family of the animal kingdom, nay, the eukaryote demesne. They are nigh
universally cute — a charming sausage shape — and often small, but unlike their tamèd brers and
sisters in Canidæ and Felidæ, they have never succumbed to human domestication and demeaning.1
Indeed, they are deceptively mighty for their size; the least weasel, an accurate name if there ever
was one, proudly squeaks as the smallest carnivore on land, and with its mighty jaw can take down a
rabbit ten times its greater, or even, should you believe the ancient Greeks, a basilisk. (So goes
it for the otter, too: a lutra lutra might never look like it has a single thought running
through its head, but show it to a streamful of fish, and you will witness a bloodbath that would
make Tamerlane blush.)
I might myself take a broader view of the term and insert an O in that
mustelid, bringing us up to the dynasty Musteloidea, where not only weasels, martens,
and otters roam, but the mischievous American raccoon, the adorable red panda, and the
e’er-defensive skunk. But the title says “mustelids”, and i am not one to argue with my
fifteen-minutes-ago self, so in our little kindred we shall remain.
A last thing to note before we return to pathetic Prīmātēs, the greatest thing in all the
family, the peak of all the realm of life, the chief reason among chief reasons that mustelids are
the best:
I don’t know if it’ll come across too well in photo form. I was lying
on the grass, as one does, and lo and
behold, there in the sky appeared what i could only describe as a double-backwards-double-rainbow:
I’ve never seen anything like it. Maybe that makes me a shut-in? I don’t know. Some quick prodding
around revealed it to be not a rainbow, but a halo: a
circum-zenithal arc, its iridescent
colours made by the low sun’s light filtering through the icy clouds above.
The Sagrada Familia. The view from a Pennine peak. My home town from above, caught by pure chance on
a flight to Turkey. The first sight of the Tyne Bridge down Grey Street. And now this. That’s the
top tier — sights i’ll never forget in my life.
Kevin Kelly, ex-editor of the Whole Earth Catalog and founder of Wired, brings us
“The Big Here Quiz”, a 30(+4)-question
test of how well you know your local area. I thought i’d give it a shot. Mr Kelly says he’s
“extremely interested in hearing from anyone who scores a 26 or better on the quiz on their first
unassisted-by-Google try”, which absolutely does not include me. You’ve got to learn these
things somehow…
Point north.
Easily done — that’s what a lifetime of staring at maps and stargazing will do!
What time is sunset today?
My intial guess was twenty past five; Google helpfully confirms that i was off by only
five minutes.
Trace the water you drink from rainfall to your tap.
My local water company’s water is primarily sourced from the Kielder reservoir, in the
Northumbrian outback — i’ll confess i’m not entirely sure what system of pipes brings it
to my house…
When you flush, where do the solids go? What happens to the waste water?
There are several sewage treatment works near my house; could be any one of them. (The
local water company’s website is
hopelessly vague about what
happens to the wastewater — perhaps i should have paid more attention in school.)
How many feet (meters) above sea level are you?
My intial guess was in the vicinity of 15 metres — hopelessly far off. The actual figure
was more like fifty!
What spring wildflower is consistently among the first to bloom here?
No idea. (The Woodlands Trust helpfully informs me that primroses appear as early as
December when the winter is mild.)
How far do you have to travel before you reach a different watershed? Can you draw the
boundaries of yours?
I couldn’t draw the boundaries, but the next town over is in a different watershed
basically any way i travel.
Is the soil under your feet, more clay, sand, rock or silt?
Clayey — oh, so clayey.
Before your tribe lived here, what did the previous inhabitants eat and how did they sustain
themselves?
The question strikes me as a little Amerocentric — should i just ask my Welsh friend
what he had for breakfast? (And, in any case, since i’m half immigrant, who exactly are
the previous inhabitants? The Normans? The Anglo-Saxons? Romans? Celts?)
Name five native edible plants in your neighborhood and the season(s) they are available.
Garlic, from summer to early autumn.
Blackcurrants, in summer. (Banned in America!)
Blackberries, from August to September.
This is about where my limited knowledge runs out.
From what direction do storms generally come?
The southwest.
Where does your garbage go?
Landfill, mostly. (A quick Google reveals many landfill sites nearby, mostly owned by
Suez.)
How many people live in your watershed?
I have a right to privacy, Kevin.
Who uses the paper/plastic you recycle from your neighborhood?
I should hope myself. I’d be a bit peeved if it all just gets shipped off to the Gambia
or somewhere like that.
Point to where the sun sets on the equinox. How about sunrise on the summer solstice?
You’re not going to believe this, but i can, in fact, point to the west. (Some tinkering
about with Stellarium informs me that the sun
rises almost due northeast on the solstice.)
Where is the nearest earthquake fault? When did it last move?
Iceland, i would imagine. It’s constantly moving, but the last tectonic activity that
reached the British ear was the eruption of
Eyjafjallajökull.
Right here, where you are, how deep do you have to drill before you reach water?
No idea.
Which (if any) geological features in your watershed are, or were, especially respected by your
community, or considered sacred, now or in the past?
Taking “watershed” more broadly, the river Tyne was and is quite highly regarded. The
Duddo Five Stones have
expansive views of the Cheviots. The Tyne Valley is home to Hadrian’s wall — dotted with
temples and such for Roman soldiers — and the oft-photographed
Sycamore Gap tree.
How many days is the growing season here (from frost to frost)?
No idea — after some research, it’s about 280 days… which is a full month longer than it
was thirty years ago. Probably not a great sign.
Name five birds that live here. Which are migratory and which stay put?
Kittiwakes (migratory; the bastards have colonised the Tyne Bridge and made the whole
quayside smell of bird cack), robins (stay put), common ravens (stay put), barn owls
(stay put), tawny owls (stay put).
What was the total rainfall here last year?
I’m no statistician, mate… (It was about 690 millimetres.)
Where does the pollution in your air come from?
Petrol emissions and the occasional blast of dust from the Sahara, though one presumes
coal once made up a greater part.
If you live near the ocean, when is high tide today?
No idea, at first — my 2022 Almanac tells me it was at about 4 p.m.
What primary geological processes or events shaped the land here?
I know about the geological history of the Channel and the Scottish Highlands, but my
earthlore regarding the north east is dreadfully lacking. Something something Pennines?
Name three wild species that were not found here 500 years ago. Name one exotic species that has
appeared in the last 5 years.
Grey squirrels, murder hornts, and Japanese knotweed. In today’s globalised world,
exotic species aren’t very — but perhaps the pet otter trade has driven up the numbers
for Aonyx cinereus.
What minerals are found in the ground here that are (or were) economically valuable?