The GardenDespatches from The Satyrs’ Forest

Page 18

The Victoria Tunnel

¡ Tagged as Newcastle, Northumberland, Ouseburn, tunnels, Tyne and Wear, visits ¡ Leave a comment

The Victoria Tunnel runs beneath the streets of Newcastle, from the Tyne up to the Town Moor. It traverses not only space, but time, through nearly every corner of England’s history: built to transport coal in the Industrial Revolution, on the site of an old Roman spring, it was used during the second world war to house those fleeing German bombs. It was even considered for use in the cold war, before the government realised that some musty old coal tunnels would probably not provide the greatest protection against a nuclear blast.

And now you can go down it. In 2007, Newcastle City Council decided to refurbish the tunnel and open a small stretch of it — the rest is either unsafe for sending humans down or currently in use as a sewer — up for public tours. Entry is via a side street along the Ouseburn, where the guides will cheerfully show you a map and some old photographs of the entrance. Once you get inside the tunnel itself, hard hats and torches are compulsory, and covid restrictions are still in full force. This was both a benefit and a malefit: yes, the tour was shorter than it would otherwise be, and masks get quite uncomfortable when you’re wearing them for an hour in a dank, dark tunnel, but on the other hand, our small group of family and friends got the place practically all to ourselves, without having to be shepherded alongside other members of the public.

The water from the ancient Roman spring is directed through a side channel, to avoid it getting all over the tunnel floor. Sometimes it even works!

The tunnel is just barely wide enough to fit three people side-by-side, and if, like me, you’re of a certain height, bumping your head on the roof is practically guaranteed. By every blast door, there’s a plaque about what’s above you, and how it factors into the tunnel and the city’s history, stories with which the guides will gladly regale visitors (including some rather grim tragedies).

Coming back out the entrance, i felt more informed about this wonderful county’s industrial history — just in time to pop over to a gentrified vegan “superfood pub”. The wonders of modern life.

Information for prospective visitors

  • Tours can be booked on the Ouseburn Trust’s website.
  • Price: ÂŁ9–11 per adult depending on the length of the tour; ÂŁ4 per child
  • Address:
    Victoria Tunnel Entrance, Ouse St., Valley, Newcastle upon Tyne NE1 2PF
    — just next to the CrossFit gym.
  • Accessibility: The tunnel was built in the 19th century and without accessibility in mind, so is not wheelchair-accessible. The Ouseburn Trust do, due to the pandemic, offer a virtual tour.
  • Getting there: The Q3 bus from the centre of town stops nearby; otherwise, getting there poses a bit of a hike, due to its location.

Links for the 20th of August

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Links for the 14th of August

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High Force

¡ Getagd als County Durham, reizen, watervallen ¡ Laat een reactie achter

Verborgen tussen de heidevelden en Penninsche pieken van County Durham ligt de machtigste waterval in Engeland. Het water van High Force tuimelt over 22 meter en 300 miljoen jaar rots naar het poel beneden. De waterval is ontstaan waar de rivier de Tees de Whin Sill kruist, een harde plaat van stollingsgesteente die een groot deel van het noorden van Engeland bedekt.

Als het waterpeil hoog genoeg is splitst de kracht zich in twee stromen, waarvan er een de andere kant op gaat rond de rotsen — na stormen kan het zelfs het hele plateau overstromen. Helaas, mijn groep had niet zoveel geluk, ondanks recente regenbuien.

De familie Raby, de eigenaars van het landgoed, vragen £5 om het uitzicht vanaf de voet van de waterval te mogen bewonderen. De waterval torent boven degene die durft naar beneden te gaan… en die niet zal missen dat er enkele mensen staan boven aan de rotsen. Die hebben helemaal niets betaald, want zij wandelde langs de gratis Penninische Weg. Verdorie.

Informatie voor bezoekers

  • Adres:
    High Force, Forest-in-Teesdale, Barnard Castle, County Durham, DL12 0XH, Verenigd Koninkrijk.
  • Bereikbaarheid: Openbaar vervoer is schaars in dit deel van het land, dus u kunt het beste een schilderachtige autorit maken door de Pennines en het negentiende-eeuwse dorp Middleton-in-Teesdale.
  • Prijs: Het Raby landgoed rekent ÂŁ5 voor toegang via de bodem, maar de top is gratis toegankelijk door een wandeling langs de Penninische Weg.
  • Toe­gan­ke­lijk­heid en faciliteiten: Het pad is, voor zover ik weet, niet rol­stoel­toe­gan­ke­lijk. De familie Raby houden toiletten en een hotel voor wie wil overnachten.

High Force

¡ Tagged as County Durham, visits, waterfalls ¡ Leave a comment

Nestled amongst County Durham’s moors and Pennine peaks lies England’s mightiest waterfall. The waters of High Force tumble over 22 metres and 300 million years of stone, down into the plunge pool below. The falls were formed where the river Tees meets the Great Whin Sill, a tough slab of igneous rock covering much of the north of England.

When the water level is high enough, the force splits into two streams, one going the other way around the rocks — after storms, it can even overflow the plateau entirely. Alas, despite recent showers, my group were not so lucky.

The Raby family, owners of the estate, charge £2 to see the view from the base of the falls. The falls tower over any mere human who dares navigate down, demanding one’s respect and attention… and making it unmissable that, at the top of the falls, there are several people who walked their on their own via the Pennine Way, not having to pay a single dime. Drat.

Information for visitors

  • Address:
    High Force, Forest-in-Teesdale, Barnard Castle, County Durham, DL12 0XH.
  • Getting there: Public transit connections are few and far between this far into the countryside, so your best bet is to take a scenic drive via car through the Pennines and the nineteenth-century village of Middleton-in-Teesdale.
  • Price: The Raby estate charges ÂŁ2 to access via the bottom, but the top can be freely accessed by a hike along the Pennine Way.
  • Opening times: 10:00–16:00.
  • Accessibility and facilities: The trail is not, to my knowledge, wheelchair-accessible. The site contains toilets and a hotel for anyone wanting to stay the night.

July 2021 recap

· Tagged as Fargo, Inside №9, links, monthly recaps, Paddington, The Big Lebowski · Leave a comment

The month of July is almost over, so it’s time for the traditional wrap-up of all that happened.

On the nineteenth of the month, with just over half of our population fully vaccinated against the virus, England finally opened up and embraced full covid anarchy, come what may. For me, the primary feeling was an overwhelming sense of relief: no more having to suffocate myself with a mask at the shops, no more will-they-won’t-they, just… getting on with life.

I’ve taken the opportunity that is the unlocking to (vaguely) plan a series of posts which may come to this blog in the near future. Keep your eyes peeled!

Films and TV watched

The Big Lebowski — A film about three dudes who just want to bowl. I have heard great things about this film since roughly the moment i clicked on the “Internet Explorer” icon for the first time, and i can’t help but feel i would have enjoyed it a little more had it not had all the hype about it. It’s an excellent film, and one i’ll be rewatching soon, but i suspect years on the internet inflated my expectations to an unreasonable extent. (Very good/10)

Yeah, well, that’s just, like, your opinion, man.

Paddington — Watched with some friends over Discord. A fine family film, and a decent contender for the dictionary definition of “wholesome”. We could all strive to be a little more like Paddington Bear. (Hard stare/10)

Fargo — A film about a man who just wants to sell a used car. A great black comedy thriller with even better accents (oh yah). (Super/10)

What’d this guy look like, anyway?
— Oh, he was a little guy… kinda funny lookin’.
— Uh-huh. In what way?
— Oh, just a general kinda way.

Inside №9 — This comedy-horror-drama-plot-twistiness-is-that-a-genre?-probably-not anthology show just doesn’t miss. Almost every episode is uproariously funny, slightly creepy, and has a twist that will leave you with your mouth hanging open at the screen.

Highlights include The Riddle of the Sphinx (the one with the crosswords), A Quiet Night In (the one without the dialogue), Cold Comfort (the one with the Samaritans), Bernie Clifton’s Dressing Room (the one with the washed-up comedians), The 12 Days of Christine (the really sad one), and, of course, their exceedingly meta live special, Dead Line. (40 tablets/10)

Links for the end of July

Links for the 25th of July

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A map of Noord-Holland

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I had that Mapmaking Itch, but, cursed by bike-shedding paralysis about the alternate history map idea i hadα, i decided to do a little doodle in the back of my journal instead…

A map of North Holland and surrounding provinces doodled on some dotted paper.

Don’t mind the chicken scratch. I would have done some nice coloured shading, but i couldn’t be bothered to go downstairs to fetch the coloured pencils.

Links for the 6th of June

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June 2021 recap

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My apologies for the delay. I knew i’d forgotten something!

Music listened to and TV watched

  • Bo Burnham’s Inside: A strong candidate for my favourite Thing of 2021. It is, frankly, unfair that one man can make me feel so many emotions in the span of an hour and a half — loved almost every minute of it! (That song about sexting does drag on a bit, though…) (A+)
  • Wolf Alice’s Blue Weekend: Bloody brilliant. (A)
  • Beabadoobee’s Our Extended Play: Yeah, this’ll do for new music from The 1975 while we wait for that Drive Like I Do compilation album. (B+)
  • Haim’s Days Are Gone: Didn’t really do much for me. Some alright singles, though! (C-)
  • Porter Robinson’s Nurture: After months of promising i’d listen to it in full when i got my hands on the vinyl, i finally admitted to myself that it was out of stock and i’d have to wait until August otherwise. It’s a pretty good album, but part of me wonders how i’d feel about it if i hadn’t worn the singles to death already… (B)
  • Euro 2020: I’d never really thought myself the football fan type. Nevertheless… come on England!!

Most viewed pages on the site last month

  1. Index page: 256 views
  2. Linkroll: 136 views
  3. The Garden (index page): 65 views
  4. About the author: 46 views
  5. Things to do before i die: 28 views
  6. Music i like: 26 views
  7. What i believe: 25 views
  8. Toaster shade generator: 24 views
  9. Songs i have cried my silly little heart out to: 20 views
  10. There Are Two Continents: 20 views

Most read posts on The Garden (in no particular order)

Links for the 29th of June

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Wc-wandelaars, hartaanvallen, en een paranoĂŻde BBC

¡ Getagd als Joe Ashton, Leslie Spriggs, parlement, politiek ¡ Laat een reactie achter

Via Hansard, het officiĂŤle verslag van het Britse parlementaire debat, laat het toenmalige Labour-parlementslid Joe Ashton ons weten wat voor onzin er gebeurde toen de regering een meerderheid van min zeventien had:

Wij hadden vroeger een wc-wandelaar. Wanneer de division bellÎą rinkelde hadden we een boven- en beneden-wc-wandelaar die alle toiletten afliep om te zien of iemand opgesloten zat. We keken onder de deur voor voeten, en als we ze zagen, dan keken we er boven. Als die mens ĂŠĂŠn van hun was liet we hem achter; als hij ĂŠĂŠn van ons was, dan haalde we hem eruit, zoms met een schroevendraaier om de deur van buitenaf te openen. Dat was het soort onzin dat zich voordeed toen het kamer stemde.

Ik herinner me het beroemde geval van Leslie Spriggs, toenmalig lid voor St. Helens. Er was een staking van stemmen en hij werd naar het kamer gebracht in een ambulance, nadat hij een ernstige haartanval had gehad. De twee Whips gingen in de ambulance kijken, en daar lag Leslie Spriggs, alsof hij dood was. Ik geloof dat John Stradling Thomas tegen Joe Harper zei: „Hoe weten we dat hij nog leeft?” Dus hij leunde voorover, draaide aan de knop van de hartmachine, het groene lichtje ging rond, en hij zei: „Daar, je hebt verloren — het is 311.” Dat is een absoluut waar verhaal. Het is het soort onzin dat vroeger gebeurde. Niemand gelooft het, maar het is waar.

[...]

Toen het parlement voor het eerst op televisie werd uitgezonden, zond de BBC de eerste drie dagen alles uit wat door de luidsprekers kwam. Het was lasterlijk, het was ongelofelijk grof, maar het was hilarisch. De BBC raakte in paniek en zei: „Iemand zal ons aanklagen wegens smaad. Als het in Hansard staat is het oké, maar als het niet in Hansard staat worden we aangeklaagd voor smaad.” Dus de BBC stopte met alles uit te zenden; nu blokkeren ze de uitzending zodat mensen alleen „hear, hear, hear” horen. Ze zijn doodsbang om aangeklaagd te worden voor smaad.